The Native Americans of the southwest are now arguably among the world’s most reputed silversmiths, but the craft of silversmithing by the Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi peoples dates back only around 150 years.
The Native Americans of the southwest are now arguably among the world’s most reputed silversmiths, but the craft of silversmithing by the Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi peoples dates back only around 150 years.
Before Spanish settlement in the Americas, Native Americans used little silver to adorn themselves. By 1850, however, the Pueblo Indians and Navajo had begun decorating their trousers with silver buttons acquired through trade with Hispanic settlers and the neighboring Plains Indian Tribes (who themselves had acquired silver items via trade with English, French, and American trappers). The Navajo also started wearing leather belts with ovals of silver attached.
The Birth of Navajo Silversmithing
Silversmithing was formally introduced to the Navajo in the early 1850s at Fort Defiance, Arizona. Navajo tribal leader and agent Henry Chee Dodge (who had married a Navajo woman) hired George Carter, a white blacksmith assisted by Mexican silversmith Juan Anaya, to teach the local Navajo the art of metalsmithing. They initially produced functional items including bridles, bridle bits, and other riding paraphernalia. It was important for the Navajo to gain these skills for themselves rather than continue purchasing these goods from the Mexicans.
Atsidii Sani – The First Navajo Silversmith
The first known Navajo silversmith was Atsidii Sani, a member of the Dibelizhini (Black Sheep) clan who was born circa 1830. His main focus was initially blacksmithing and working with iron, however, he started learning the fine art of silversmithing in 1853.
While Sani predominantly focused on ironwork and making bridles, he became known for his silverwork; his early pieces included conchas, bracelets, and other pieces of jewelry.
He ultimately taught his four sons (Big Black, Red Smith, Little Smith, and Burnt Whiskers) the art of silversmithing, as well as his younger brother Slender Maker of Silver, who himself was to become known as one of the best silversmiths of his era.
By 1890, Sani was both an active political leader and a paid teacher in the art of silversmithing.
Developing Skills…
Over time, the Navajo honed their silver working skills and some developed the talent to make stamps and dies. The US government of the time issued metal ration tags; these controlled the amount of food distributed. The Navajo smiths soon became able to counterfeit these ration tags.
By 1870, having the expertise to make stamps and dies, the Navajo began to duplicate designs found in Mexican leatherwork onto silver. Tribe members who worked for the government soon demanded their pay in silver, which was later turned into items of decoration.
By 1880, silversmithing was prevalent throughout the Navajo reservation. Federal agents supported silversmithing at the Navajo reservation and the art became an important part of the tribe’s economy.
Several Mexican silversmiths were hired to teach new skills at the Hubbell Trading Post. These included how to cast silver in tufa or sandstone and to produce hand-hammered silverwork. Turquoise, long important to the Navajo, also began to be incorporated into their silver jewelry around this time. Persian turquoise was imported for trade purposes until more local turquoise mines were opened.
Around 1900, Navajo silversmiths commenced making Native American silver jewelry for commercial sale to Anglo traders and tourists (before this time it was almost exclusively created for their own use and trade with other Native tribes). Women were also introduced to the craft to meet growing commercial needs.
The Source of Silver
Until 1890, silver used for Native American jewelry was sourced by melting down American coins. From this date, “defacing” a US coin became illegal and Mexican pesos were used as a substitute. In 1930, exporting Mexican pesos to the U.S. Southwest was also forbidden, and sterling silver ingots, sheets, and wire were made available for silversmithing.
Zuni Silversmithing
Unlike the Navajo, the Zuni metalworking tradition began around 1830, when they learned to work with copper and brass (these were salvaged from old kettles). It was not until the 1870s that a Navajo trader (regularly trading Navajo jewelry for Zuni livestock), taught Zuni blacksmith Lanyade how to work with silver.
The earliest Zuni silver jewelry was nearly identical to that produced by the Navajo at that time: simple handmade silver pieces decorated with rock-made engravings or uncomplicated die-stamping, and later with turquoise featured in their pieces. Like the Navajo, at first the Zuni exclusively produced silver jewelry for themselves and other tribes, but by 1930 it was being produced for tourists as a major revenue source.
Designs began to diversify from those of the Navajo in the 1920s, and the style now so strongly associated with Zuni jewelry was born: small inlay stonework based on ancient Zuni designs.
Hopi Silversmithing
The Hopi were first introduced to silversmithing by the abovementioned Zuni silversmith Lanyade in the 1890s, when he started trading silver jewelry he’d handcrafted with the Hopi in return for native cotton handwoven textiles. It was Lanyade who taught the first Hopi silversmith, Sikyatala – and again, these early designs were indistinguishable from early Navajo and Zuni pieces.
Only in the 1930s did the distinctive overlay style that Hopi Indian silver jewelry is so recognizable for emerge – and somewhat ironically, it was triggered by non-Native encouragement for Hopi silversmiths to develop their own unique jewelry style. The silver overlay style was inspired by traditional Pueblo designs taken from textiles, baskets, and pottery. While coral and turquoise were occasionally used, soon Hopi jewelry almost exclusively featured standalone silver overlays.
Indian Traders offer a magnificent range of genuine Native American jewelry: Native American bracelets, Native American necklaces, Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi pieces handmade by talented authentic Native silversmiths. Take a look for yourself and follow us on Facebook to stay up to date!